Toby Roberts wins gold in Paris, dominating the men's competition in front of the 7000-strong crowd. His face is a mix of incredulity and sheepish joy. Favourite for the win Sorato Anraku is forced to settle for silver. Jakob Schubert confirms hisperpetual class and ends the Olympics with a fantastic bronze, just like in Tokyo four years ago!Our live ends here today, see you tomorrow morning at 10:15 for the last chapter in this Olympic adventure in Paris with the last medal up for grabs, the women's Boulder & Lead Combined. Well, what can we say? What a day of excitement, a roller-coaster ride of emotions. Tomorrow promises to be just as great!
BOULDER | LEAD | TOTAL | ||||||
1 | 2 | GBR | ROBERTS Toby | 63.1 (3) | 92.1 (3) | 155.2 | ||
2 | 1 | JPN | ANRAKU Sorato | 69.3 (1) | 76.1 (5) | 145.4 | ||
3 | 3 | AUT | SCHUBERT Jakob | 43.6 (5) | 96.0 (1) | 139.6 | ||
4 | 6 | USA | DUFFY Colin | 68.3 (2) | 68.1 (7) | 136.4 | ||
5 | 18 | GBR | McARTHUR Hamish | 53.9 (4) | 72.0 (6) | 125.9 | ||
6 | 8 | CZE | ONDRA Adam | 24.1 (7) | 96.0 (1) | 120.1 | ||
7 | 13 | ESP | GINES LOPEZ Alberto | 24.1 (7) | 92.1 (3) | 116.2 | ||
8 | 12 | FRA | JENFT Paul | 24.4 (6) | 54.0 (8) | 78.4 |
13:22 13:15 13:05 12:59 12:53 12:41
13:30
Sorato Anraku, last man out in the Combined Boulder & Lead Paris 2024 Olympics. He starts well, just needs to keep his cool to confirm his position as leader. He climbs easily, has time to think and chalk up on the holds. But then he gets into trouble halfway up the wall, wastes some energy fundamental for the headwall. Up high he falls, just one hold from the overall victory. His score of 155.2 isn't enough for first ! Silver for Anraku! Gold for Roberts! Bronze for Schubert!
Toby Roberts...
Adam Ondra
Alberto Ginés López
Jakob Schubert
Paul Jenft,
12:45
Colin Duffy is on fire at the moment in lead and he starts provisional second. Now's the time to confirm his worth! There's a bit of uncertainty in the middle, he backtracks to rest, changes the sequence the powers quickly upwards. He falls one hold below McArthur, but it's enough for provisional first! 136.4 points. He's done all he can, now he's got an agonising wait!
Hamish McArthur
12:35
Men's Lead, Final Round, here we go! Hamish McArthur kicks off the action.
12:25
The athletes are already in the arena, observing the route. The pressure is palpable, understandably so, we're at the Olympics! It's worth noting that after an appeal, Jakob Schubert has lost 5 points. These might prove fundamental. We'll soon see.11:59
Time for a short break, the live resumes at 12.35 with the Lead that will determine the new Olympic champion of this Combined event. The provisional ranking after the Boulder round is led by sensational 17-year-old Sorato Anraku with 69.3 points. Hot on his heels is Colin Duffy with 68.3 points, while Toby Roberts after an excellent performance trails in provisional third place with 63.1 points. Hamish McArthur powered into provisional 4th with 53.9 points, while the last four know they have a mountain to climb in Lead: Jakob Schubert 43.6 points, Paul Jenft 24.4 points, Adam Ondra and Alberto Gines Lopez tied last with 24.1 points.
Boulder #1 | Boulder #3 | Boulder #3 | Boulder #4 | Total | ||||||
1 | 1 | JPN | ANRAKU Sorato | 25.0 | 24.6 | 9.9 | 9.8 | 69.3 | ||
2 | 6 | USA | DUFFY Colin | 24.4 | 9.6 | 9.8 | 24.5 | 68.3 | ||
3 | 2 | GBR | ROBERTS Toby | 24.4 | 9.0 | 24.8 | 4.9 | 63.1 | ||
4 | 18 | GBR | McARTHUR Hamish | 24.8 | 9.8 | 9.9 | 9.4 | 53.9 | ||
5 | 3 | AUT | SCHUBERT Jakob | 24.7 | 9.3 | 4.8 | 9.6 | 43.6 | ||
6 | 12 | FRA | JENFT Paul | 4.9 | 9.7 | 0.0 | 9.8 | 24.4 | ||
7 | 8 | CZE | ONDRA Adam | 9.5 | 9.8 | 0.0 | 4.8 | 24.1 | ||
7 | 13 | ESP | GINES LOPEZ Alberto | 0.0 | 4.7 | 9.8 | 9.6 | 24.1 |
11:53 11:48 11:44 11:41
Sorato Anrakuon #4 a few tries to reach the high zone, the paddle moves make him sweat and, in the end, remain unclimbed. The sensational 17-year-old doesn't seem particularly satisfied with his performance, even though he leads the provisional ranking with 69.3 points!
Toby Roberts
Alberto Ginés López
11:36 11:28
On problem #3 Sorato Anraku doesn't find the top first go, on his second attempt he gets the upper zone but can't secure the top. He's human too! On problem #4 Jakob Schubert isn't particularly happy. He'd started well but ends his run with just one top and a total score of 48.4, provisional 5th.
11:31
Toby Roberts demonstrates he's on top form by sending #3 in three goes. This top will be fundamental to fuel his medal dreams! What a superb performance from the young Brit. Paul Jenft can't find his way through the paddle move dynos on #4 and ends the round with 24.4 points.
Adam Ondra
11:24
Alberto Ginés López on boulder #3 needs to do well to stay in the running, but despite a good attempt, this isn't his day. Yet. Problem #4 is a sort of "Rainbow rocket" transported from Fontainebleau to Paris; Hamish McArthur doesn't stick the dyno towards the top, but he can certainly be happy with his result. He ends with 53.9 points, provisional first.
11:18
Jakob Schubert
11:13
Toby Roberts
11:08 11:04
Today it's much cooler than the other days, it's cloudy and with a slight breeze that certainly will be helping the friction. Colin Duffy makes a good first attempt on problem #3 but fails to send. Adam Ondra works the slab, understands the tricky final sequence but is unable to find the correct body position to stop the swing. He tries and tries agina, but keep falling. Time's running out. He'll have to do better on the last two problems to stay in the running.
Hamish McArthur
11:00
17-year-old Sorato Anraku shows he's from another planet on problem #1, no hesitation whatsoever, a flash in just a few seconds. Crazy! 25 points, a perfect start. Jakob Schubert needs multiple attempts to learn the slab moves on #2, and with a few seconds left on the clock he dynoes for the top. For a second it looks like it's his. But it isn't. 34 points for him after the second problem.
10:55 10:51 10:46 10:43 10:38
Toby Roberts, the surprise - but not too much to be honest - of these Olympics, enters the arena. The start proves confusing for him, too, but once he works out the beta he breezes to the top. He grabs the hold and kicks the wall in relief and frustration, he knows he's needed more attempts than necessary, 24.4 point his scone. Paul Jenft is o the slab. And off. He fails to work out the last move. Who'll show us how it's done?
Adam Ondra
Jakob Schubert
Paul Jenft
10:34
Colin Duffy seems confused at the start of #1, wastes important attempts getting going. But as soon as he get's the first zone he strolls to the top. 24.4, 7 attempts.
10:32 10:22
First out Hamish McArthur, and the Brit immediately finds an easy way to start boulder #1, on his flash he falls matching the top. The falls again. And tops it third go. 24.8
10:27
Monday's bouldering semifinal was a tough round, and we can't wait to see the cream of the crop compete in this final. Our hands are sweating already. Will Alberto Ginés López manage to defend his Olympic title?
10:15
Paris welcomes the climbers with yet another day of brilliant sunshine. And the brilliant 7,000 strong crowd welcomes the the climbers with a raucous roar as the athletes enter the arena.The athletes now have 2 minutes per boulder to observe it and try to work out the beta. They can also touch the holds, but only the starting holds marked with 4 tapes, but are not allowed to take their feet off the ground.
10:05 07:36
The competition begins at 10:15 with Boulder. Here's the starting list, in reverse order of the Semifinal results:
1. Hamish McArthur
2. Colin Duffy
3. Paul Jenft
4. Jakob Schubert
5. Alberto Ginés López
6. Adam Ondra
7. Toby Roberts
8. Sorato Anraku
Friday 9th August, day 5 of sport climbing at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. It's the big day for Combined, for the Men's Boulder and Lead discipline. After the semi-finals on Monday (Boulder) and Wednesday (Lead), the moment of truth has arrived for the best 8. They are: Sorato Anraku, Toby Roberts, Adam Ondra, Alberto Gines Lopez, Jakob Schubert, Paul Jenft, Colin Duffy & Hamish McArthur. Who knows how much they managed to sleep last night. As usual, the competition begins with Boulder, and they're gunning for the perfect, maximum score of 100 points. The competition begins at 10.15.
For those not in the French capital, here'sthecomplete list of how to watch the Olympic Games, including Eurosport with the excellent Shauna Coxsey and Matt Groom. Join planetmountain for the latest sport climbing news from the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. Our reporting will begin shortly before 10:15. Join us for what promises to be a historic competition.